images via Style.com

I'm really enchanted with Giles Deacon's pre-fall presentation. Held in a Florence porcelain factory and accented by a metal soundtrack, the whole thing was a fantastically complicated equation. Kind of like:

Julian Schnabel plate paintings x a "Hoarders" episode + raver wigs

Though he is rehashing some spring trends here (electric tangerine, trench-style tops, nude dresses) I think he more than earns a pass for finding a way to inject them with some of his apocalyptic gloom-and-doom and British quirk.

Deacon once described his dresses as "a bit 'We're on, we're out, we mean business.'" And, underneath the industrial Stephen Jones headpieces, excess hair, and chaos, the pieces themselves are classic Deacon. Tough, straightforward and darkly sexy.